Posts Tagged: food


7
Nov 09

Gandesa

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I live in a lovely apartment on a charming side street off Avenida Diagonal called Gandesa.

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This afternoon is pristine, calming, sunny, and a lukewarm temperature with breezes to remind your cheeks that it is in fact autumn. I have nothing of urgency to do today, so I walked down my street, followed a couple of intriguing corners, and followed my curiosity. There is a tiny bookstore only a block from home that carries popular books by American authors, translated into Spanish of course. I find relaxing enjoyment browsing through any book store, almost as I would a museum. Books lend themselves to eyes flitting from cover to cover, first processing the art and the font, and then the title – perhaps recognizing a name or even being interested enough to read the back of the book. I resisted buying anything because I already have a stack of books I would love to get through, and a mental stack even higher of recommendations from friends.

Only a few lamp posts further, I smelled a local bakery. It was lunch time, my inner dialogue said, but I walked inside just to satisfy my nose a bit more and peek at the various croissants, baby croissants, pastries, biscuits, and other various round and jellied or powdered treats I don’t even have labels for. As I escaped the cozy shop, I saw across the street a row of white tents. I made a mental note to return on the opposite side of the street so I could see what people were selling over there. I wanted to explore further, so I continued to the next corner of the street and noticed a fruit and vegetable shop one block to my left. Excited by the idea of inexpensive and most likely deliciously fresh produce, I walked over there. On my way down the block to the left I thought about how serenely peaceful it is to be able to turn a corner on a whim and walk without direction, destination, or anticipation. I’m so pleased with where I live and how amazing life is in the moment that I smiled to myself.

The fruit and veggie place was like a large room, opened to the street. There was a little island of crates in the middle to display peppers, eggplant, green tomatoes, regular tomatoes, and artichoke. The crates in the middle, with the fruit along the surrounding walls made one small and circular aisle. I chose a green, sour apple and three mandarin oranges, paid 68 cents and returned to the street I came from a block away. Further down the unexplored end of the street appeared to be mostly apartments and stores with uninteresting labels on the front. I remembered the white tents and I crossed the street to walk up where I came from and see what was going on. This all reminded me of Michigan. I’m sure it would remind people of all kinds of places, but that is the most present in my mind of course. It was like being in Birmingham, or Milford, or Northville where the streets are calm, quite pedestrian, and there are stores of interest along the whole way. The white tents and tables set up along the sidewalk made me think of art fairs in Ann Arbor or elsewhere that I had been. Once I approached however, only two of the stations were selling crafts and paintings. To my greater interest, the majority of the tents housed a specific type of culturally relevant grocery. There was a stand for honey and wax, with an actual beehive in a glass cage. Another long table displayed all sorts of cheeses and meats – chorizo, jamón, lomo, and more. It was attended by a sweet looking old man and the combination of the products being sold and the people selling gave a comforting impression of “local” or small-town interaction. Another tent had lines of glass jars filled with pastas and some spices unknown to me. The man had created his own pasta dishes to sell, but also to his side he displayed crates of unusual mushrooms and dried ingredients for cooking whoknowswhat. There was a chocolate tent, and a bread and pastry tent as well. Everything looked specially prepared and presented and proudly unique. I considered buying some things here instead of at the market/grocery store across from my apartment, but I decided against it.

The grocery store by my apartment is really small but it has a full butcher’s section and an amazing variety of cheeses. I asked for some slices of gouda, and a few hundred grams of salchichón and some more lomo (país). I grabbed another letre of orange juice, a new drink of choice, and another brick of dark chocolate. The grocery store is often loud with the butchers yelling in conversation across the counters to each other and the unreserved voices of old ladies asking their husbands on the other end of the room if they had found something they were looking for. This casual and open interaction between everybody is what makes me want to call it a “market,” because that is a part of what I associate with markets, the openness. Well, after getting my delicious Spanish meats and some cheese and chocolate I spent only 8€ and came back to the apartment to make lunch.

The apple was excellent and sour, just as I love them.

I wrote this entry.


2
Jun 09

Madrid

I arrived in Madrid Monday afternoon and there was some confusion about when my brother Ryan was arriving. I’ll skip all of that and try to do a rundown of what I did -

I was sweaty and exhausted from metro hopping and walking in search of the place. Once everything was resolved, I sat on the futon and put on some music. There is a sound system here with a CD changer and there was already some good music in it. I relaxed some and then I went out. I just brought some money and started walking, no map or anything. It is kind of fun to go somewhere new and simply walk in a direction for a while (try to sort of keep your orientation in mind) and see what is around.

You can find me on google maps if you put in: Calle de Princesa 3, Madrid, Spain. I am in a high rise apartment there. It is across from Plaza España so I walked there first. There is a Don Quixote statue by a fountain and whatnot… I contemplated what it must be like to be a country known for a classic piece of literature from over 400 years ago as I kept walking. I wonder what it would be like if the USA was only known for Mark Twain and we had statues and streets named after him and tourists would come and take pictures of them and buy copies of Huck Finn. I don’t know. I’m sure Spaniards don’t think of themselves like that, but really it is kind of funny when I come to Madrid and the most lucid impression is that you are in a city of literary geniuses from the days of old. Second, you think of kings, queens, and people dressed in midieval vestiments, and then perhaps third your thoughts wander to conquistadors.  

But in short, I see everything in this giant city as a connection to old literature, and that could just be because that was what I got my degree in. 

So, I walked around the plaza, inspecting the building labels across the street to find which one seemed the most interesting and I followed Gran Vía up a ways. Then I took a random turn down a smaller street to my right, again with a lot of signs poking out from the buildings, which grabbed my interest. I exhausted that little street quickly and it poured out into a bigger walkway that made me think of La Rambla in Barcelona. I think it was called A- something and it sounded familiar when I saw the name but couldn’t recall what I was thinking of. 

There are lots of shops on this wide avenue with a couple street performers that I readily ignored and I did my best to pick the most obscure café, although failed royally as I noticed more of them later in the city – must be a chain. Well, I ordered a café con leche y un bocadillo de jamón. Then I changed my mind as the waitress was about to get the café, and asked for a beer instead. It was very hot and I was still stressed from traveling. A logical choice.

I relaxed and took my time with the Heineken and my Spanish jamón mini sandwich. I paid and then walked on, taking more random turns here and there. Lo and behold, I ended up on Gran Vía again and I headed back to the apartment. 

I went and had some great Chinese food later [shrimp and veggies in curry sauce with fried rice - very good], and then saw a movie which is a blockbuster here ”Los Hombres Que No Amaban A Las Mujeres” (click poster for info).’ It was Swedish with Spanish subs, which proved to be a new challenge for me. I have seen movies dubbed in Spanish and I can follow those just fine, but during the first part of this movie I had a hard time reading the Spanish fast enough to understand it while watching the movie at the same time. After a while I got into the groove of it. As for the movie itself, I liked it, but it wasn’t amazing. I don’t know if they have it in America. It means ”Men that hate women” or ”the woman with the dragon tatoo” is the book in english. It is a best seller in Spain and the movie has been advertised like crazy, so I decided to see what all the who-haw was about.

That was Monday more or less. Now for Tuedsay (at writing: today).

My brother called around 9am and I got up, showered and went outside to wait for him. We agree that this place is really great. Huge, and cheaper than a hotel!

yw3 mnmm

After getting settled in, Ryan and I walked to the royal palace (didn’t go inside today due to a huge line of sizzling, pasty Americans). We did go inside a cathedral, pretty cool, but after a while all the giant cathedrals look the same.

Then we took some random streets and got Dracula ice cream bars – an apparent favorite of Ryan’s. I guess they don’t have them in the US but they are really good! It reminded me of the ice cream man. Grape on the outside, some kind of red flavor on the inside, and at the bottom a kind of vanilla and something else.

On a secondary note I love how RED has become a flavor in contemporary pop cuisine. For example, hundreds of families coming to see a movie (referring to when I worked as a theatre concessionist) stare at the icee machine with large, well-lit, well-marketed labels saying PEPSI and CHERRY above a swirling mixture of brown and another red, respectively. The assuredly literate parents always ask their little kids trying to peer over the counter ”do you want to get the frozen drink again? What kind? The brown or the red flavor?” and the kids: ”RED! RED!

Certainly this didn’t exist before the 1950-60s. Kind of odd. But even a grown boy like myself resorts to describing something as red flavored when I don’t know what is in it. I mean, it wasn’t strawberry, it wasn’t cranberry, and I doubt it was raspberry. After all the preservatives and sugars, who knows if it is really a fruit of any kind in the first place? So yeah, red. It was good. 

To make a long story short, we ate some other things on our journey and went to the grocery store and got some Spanish yummies for the kitchen: jamón ibérico, mussels, olives, red wine, manchego cheese, sparking water, etc etc…

 

breakfastStopped for ”breakfast” at a random place. I don’t know if it was a misunderstanding or if she normally makes them like this, but I asked for a bocadillo (little sandwich) and they didn’t have any at that time of day so I asked for a tortilla de patata (basically omelette with potato) and I ended up with the tortilla between two slices of bread! There’s Ryan enjoying his coke.

seafood

Alright, so don’t tell Dad, but I had some sardines with Ryan and I actually like them! We stopped at a small place called Mariscos Bilbao or something. Loads of fresh seafood and ham there.

iphone-074  iphone-066 

These were done with my iPhone so the quality isn’t always the best.

Lastly, I took a little clip of the inside of the Cathedral by the Palace (I forgot all the names already). I was going to just take pictures out of it but here, you can have the whole thing: